Well, today turned out to be a bit of a surprise. Frank’s birthday was this week, and I was going to surprise him with a trip to the Island of Burano, way out in the Venetian Lagoon. I had booked a special lunch restaurant out there. Since this would involve a couple of vaparetto (water taxi) changes, we left a couple of hours before our reservation. Frank knew we were going to an island, but didn’t know which one.

The Nebbia

The morning was foggy, which was really pretty – everything seemed shrouded in mystery as we struck out. We quickly walked to the stop by St. Mark’s Square, feeling very smug that we knew our way now, after a week here. We validated our water taxi passes and strode up to the platform – which was nearly empty. After waiting for about 10 minutes and seeing people come – and then leave – we started wondering if there was something we were missing. It turns out that all vaparettos to the islands shut down in the fog (called nebbia in Italian). There would be no Burano today.

Regrouping

That’s ok – we are savvy travelers. We went to the Cafe Florian for tea and coffee and came up with a new plan. I moved our Burano reservations to the next day and we decided to try Guidecca instead. It is the island across from Venice. We could see it through the fog, so we figured the water taxi would take us there. I had heard about a famous restaurant there – what a great back-up plan. We are so adaptable!

Guidecca

We look at our maps and see we need Vaparetto #2, which stops at San Marco. Great – we are right here. We hop on, only to discover it is going the wrong direction. So we make our way back up the Grand Canal back toward our home where we started the day. No worries. It is a scenic trip. I snagged us seats on the front even, so we can enjoy the ride. Well, Vaparetto #2 goes up the Grand Canal, around by the parking lot (not so scenic) and then out to the open water of the lagoon before stopping in Guidecca.

Nearly an hour later, we finally got off, frozen as popsicles. But at least we are here. The restaurant is on the quay by the water taxi stop so should be easy to spot. But there is not a soul to be seen – although the views back across to Venice were stunning. Guidecca appears to be a ghost town, even spookier in the fog. We walk up and down. Even the famous Cipriani Hotel is shuttered for the season. We find the famous restaurant, which is boarded up and closed until April. Oh no. (At this point, I could not feel my fingers or toes and had trouble enunciating words.) We finally spied a sign for a trattoria and gratefully fell in the door. They were closing, but took pity on us and let us stay. They were out of nearly everything on the menu, except the tagliatelle with duck ragu. It was one of our best meals since we were so happy to be there.

Back Home

But eventually we did have to leave. Back to the vaparetto stop. There were two taxis that would be running, both stopping at St. Mark’s. But the second one (#2 again), we knew by now would take us back up the Grand Canal closer to our home. We let the first taxi go by so we could wait on #2. We were finally getting the hang of this. The #2 taxi came and we hopped on (inside this time). It crossed the channel and stopped at San Marco. Most people stood up, but we lived on the Grand Canal so would stay and keep going. Finally, I noticed that we were the only people at all left and asked Frank if that seemed strange. About that time, the conductor came in and yelled something in Italian and motioned us to “shoo.” It turns out when #2 reaches San Marco, it turns around and goes back the same way it came.

We decided it would be easier to just walk home. [We are now home – weary, windblown, and finally warming up. We will try for Burano again tomorrow.]

Well – after our glamorous days of Carnevale, we are back to reality.

Back to Work

For me, this means setting up my new remote office – although I have to admit, I really do like my view overlooking the Grand Canal. I can keep track of the tide, the workers going back and forth, and the gondoliers. Everything here moves by boat, so I watch the garbage boat, the ambulance boat, the milkman boat – today, even a hearse boat went by with a coffin with beautiful flowers on top. (Sometimes I have to move to the sofa so I can concentrate better!)

To the Market

Frank’s job for the day was to explore and find a market for some additional essentials we needed, like fresh produce and wine. We are right next to the farmer’s market and fish market. These are where the local restaurant chefs come very early each morning to select their ingredients, which are delivered (of course) by boat. Frank has learned his way around the stalls by now – he especially loves the fish market. We have gotten lost each time we try to find a real grocery store, so we may be eating a lot of fish and vegetables!

Laundry Day

And finally, it was laundry day. You never know how this will go. We finally gave up on our washer in Florence, which was located under a tarp on the balcony. One day, after 3 hours, the washer turned off on its own and unlocked. I opened the door and water gushed out over the side of the balcony and down five floors onto the street (hopefully not on someone’s head!). I quickly closed the door, looked around guiltily, and then peeked in again – only to have a new gush of water pour out and over the side. It was then that I realized our good fortune that the washer was on the balcony and not inside.  We changed to hand-washing after that. So, here we have a fresh start with a new washer. [I am happy to report that all went well.]

Up Next . . . we have some essentials to take care of – mainly for me, finding a place to get my hair cut and colored (you may have noticed I am looking a wee bit lighter these days). I am not sure how to describe this in Italian, so am going to wander around until I find a place that looks good, point to my hair, pantomime a trim, and show a picture of someone with the color I want.  This will surely be an adventure.  So stay tuned . . . .

Today was Mardi Gras in Venice (Fat Tuesday). And what a show! We thought Sunday was fabulous, but today was even better.

This time, we had box seats the whole day so a whole different perspective being part of the stage and looking out onto the audience. They served us a wonderful 4-course lunch with baked fish au gratin, asparagus risotto, duck with artichokes, and tiramisu. It took half the afternoon.

We sat next to an adorable French family who were visiting from Paris. The grandparents own a vineyard and make champagne and invited us to visit them near Reims. (We will add that to our list!)  We had a lot of fun with them and invited them to visit and sail with us in Annapolis.

And then the highlights really started.

More Costumes

There was yet another costume contest but his one was more informal. The audience got to choose the winner by holding up a red or green sheet of paper. The costumes looked just as impressive to us – we think the difference was that the official contest we saw before was judged on the actual costume design and sewing, while today was more “off the rack.” One of our favorites was a Pavarotti impersonator who looked just like him.

Festa della Marie

Then, for the Maries. Each year, twelve young ladies are chosen to be part of Carnevale, observing the tradition that the Doge (king) had established when he would select twelve deserving Venetians to honor by paying their bridal dowries. It reminded me of the Cherry Blossom Festival, where I was always trying to find a South Carolina Princess – some poor soul was probably scrambling around seeing what family friend she could talk into being a Marie (and no doubt having to come up with lots of gifts).

The Maries are celebrated throughout Venice and spent all day making their way to St. Marks – being carried through the streets and then taking gondolas down the canals. Finally, they paraded onto the stage as the song “Maria” from West Side Story played on the loudspeakers. The crowd and the press went wild.

Flight of the Lion

Then the Maries lined up to help unfurl a giant flag of Venice, which features a lion. As the crowd sang the “Anthem of Venice,” the flag slowly was lifted and unfurled along a wire that went to the top of the tower, while confetti blew through the air. It was breathtaking.

A Perfect Ending

A group called “The Gondoliers” finished the day with a variety of Italian songs, from opera to Andrea Bocelli to fun sing-along classics. They were as good as The Three Tenors. Pavarotti (from the costume contest) held court in the audience lip-synching along when an opera was sung – with fans taking pictures.  No one takes themselves too seriously at Carnevale.  Frank and I even danced in the middle of St. Mark’s Square as they sang “Time to Say Goodbye.” It was dark then, and the Square was full – what a magical moment. Then the Gondoliers finished up and said, “See you in 2016!” as everyone cheered.

Venice – I have to say, you put on one classy and elegant party.  We hope we will be back.

What a day we’ve had! Our first full day in Venice and it is Carnevale – Venice’s version of Mardi Gras, only it started here first.

There are parties, balls, concerts, and festivities all over town. But the main action is in St. Mark’s Square. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a website that offered tickets for a seated area and took a chance. I was a little nervous that it was a scam or wouldn’t be worth it, but I figured we’re only here once (at Carnevale at least), so we should give it a try.

The VIP Section

We made our way to St. Mark’s with a huge crowd, hardly getting lost at all. When we got there, almost every inch was filled with people – and more people lining every available balcony. Our email said to check in at the ticket booth. I thought, “Good luck finding that.” But we did and they switched our voucher for a ticket. Then a security man opened a door and let us behind the barricade. We were shocked! There were probably a thousand people on the square, but only a couple of hundred in the VIP section. We had plenty of room, cocktail tables and chairs, a wine bar, and even a bathroom. Plus we could walk right up to the stage and take pictures whenever we wanted. Wow.

Flight of the Eagle

One of the highlights was the Volo Aquila – the Flight of the Eagle. It is a tradition that someone is chosen to “fly” down a wire that is constructed between the tower in St. Mark’s Square down to the stage. This year they choose a Paralympian (Giusy Versace) who lost both of her legs below the knee. She runs on blades. We all looked way up as she stepped out onto the platform and got buckled in. Then they played Celine Dion’s  “Because You Loved Me” as she slowly made her way down across the tops of our heads and onto the stage. Everyone was crying.

Lunch On Stage

Then we got to go INTO the stage for lunch (this was another ticket I bought). They have boxes built into the sides of the stage that are heated and complete with white tablecloths and a three-course menu. We had a fun time sampling Venetian food while watching the action from the stage itself.

The Costumes of Carnevale

Then – what everyone was waiting for – the finals for the costume contest. Everywhere you walk you see elaborate costumes. Each day they join in a parade and are judged by the audience in the VIP section, who hold up red or green cards. There had been over 400 entries so far. So today, the finalists came back to strut their stuff on the runway. The judges were professional costume designers who even inspect the material and stitching and hold up a red or green mask to determine whether someone makes it to the next round. Everyone was riveted to see what colors they would hold up and would cheer or groan if they did or didn’t like the choice.

Finally, as it was gettng dark, the top 20 were chosen and took the stage once more. There was much debate. But a winner was chosen for Best Theme (The Venetian Kitchen – why some of the costumes appear to be food-related), Best Originality (which went to a fabulous man dressed as CoCo Chanel’s sofa – he was our favorite), and Overall (stunning costumes of Eros and two lovers).

We literally danced all the way home, we were so excited.

Bonne Nuit – and Let the Good Times Roll!

Christy & Frank

We were sad to leave Florence but are excited to be in our new home – Venezia! We will be here for 5 weeks.

We had a bit of a rocky start – thanks to me. I seem to have accumulated belongings as I’ve gone and have almost doubled my bags. We were taking the train, and I was a little nervous how we’d get all the bags downstairs and to the taxi, then to the train platform and up and onto the train, and then back down and to our apartment. But the fates (or God) were looking down on us. Our apartment contact, Lorenzo, stopped by as we were leaving and called a friend with a taxi to pick us up nearly at our door. Then there were porters waiting at the station – we had read that they were unofficial and not to trust them, but we were so happy to see them, we just agreed to pay whatever they asked to put our bags on their trolley. Then, our rental company arranged a water taxi to pick us up at the train station in Venice. Whew! (We are both a little sore tonight and have decided to research how to mail some of this home before we set out again!)

Our New Venetian Home

The city is mobbed with visitors that are here for Valentine’s and Carnevale, so we were so happy when we made it to the water taxi dock outside of the train station and a man said, “Ms. Tinnes?” He grabbed our bags and we all jumped in a boat and sped off. We could barely catch our breath and believe we were here.

Soon he pulled up to a dock by the side of the Grand Canal, where our apartment greeter was waiting and pulled our bags off the boat and said to follow him. Our apartment is off of a little side street by the fish market, right on the Grand Canal. It has a gate and big wooden front door and then old stone steps that lead up to the first floor (which is really the 2nd is the US). Our greeter told that us that due to flooding, it is not good to have a place on the ground floor (we wondered if this means we will have to wade down the steps if this happens).

We have one bedroom, bathroom, galley kitchen, and living room with sunny windows overlooking the Grand Canal. We’ve had fun just gazing at all the boat traffic going up and down.

Carnevale

We set out to get our bearings and immediately saw revelers in masquerade. This is the last few days of Carnvale, the Venetian version of Mardi Gras. We even got into the spirit and found a mask shop that advertised handmade papier mache masks.

We wandered around with everyone for awhile (wearing our masks!), but eventually had to get down to business and do some marketing to get us through the next couple of days – mainly to purchase essentials like wine, cheese, bread, and toilet paper.

Lesson Learned:   I am not yet experienced enough to do the marketing while wearing a mask.  Not only does it cut down on the ability to locate the cereal in Italian, it gets a little frantic at the end trying to pay in Euros and self-bag groceries with a mask falling down my face.  So better to leave the mask at home next time.  : )

Now we are back home resting up so we can navigate the Carnevale crowds again tomorrow. Tonight we only made it around our little neighborhood (San Paolo), which is on the “non-touristy” side of the Canal. We can’t imagine how crowded it must be closer to St. Mark’s, where all the action is. But that is on our agenda for Sunday.  We are supposed to have table seats for the finals of the costume contest.  We bought them on the Internet, so we hope they are for real.  Stay tuned . . . .

We have friends who are coming to Florence for just a day on a cruise ship excursion. They asked for suggestions of what to see. Florence has so many wonderful sites, but after thinking about this, here’s what I personally would recommend as my perfect day to get the best taste of Florence.

Morning: Palazzo Pitti (My Favorite Place)

Start off at the Pitti Palace. It is on the Oltrarno (the “other” side of the Arno River from the major sites). This means it is far less crowded and no lines. (My sister and I discovered this a couple of years ago when we were desperate to escape the heat and crowds in June.) Tip: The ticket office is at the extreme rigth side. Once inside the palace courtyard, there are WCs (50 cents).

The Pitti Palace is where the Medici Family lived, followed by the House of Savoy and other rulers (all the way to the early 1900s), so you can tour their amazingly luxurious apartments. You can even see a bathroom built for Napoleon.

But the best – they have almost as outstanding artwork as the Uffizi Gallery, but with no people. One of the former residents decided to hang the art in a manner that he thought was symmetrical, rather than in chronological order or by artist. So the walls are crammed with a dizzying amount of works. They have left it as it was originally hung. You have to look carefully because a Rafael or Rubens will be off to the side next to someone you’ve never heard of before. There are written guides in each room that point out the artwork so worth looking at these to identify the big artists. It is over the top extravagance.

Boboli Gardens

After touring the inside, stretch your legs in the Boboli Gardens (this is a separate ticket – bought at same ticket office). You can lose yourself here and wander around little hidden paths and explore. At the end, as you are facing the palace, take a right down the hill. It looks like you are going down a driveway to a workshed. You’ll see some steps off to the right. Go down and find a fabulous grotto that the Medici family created for their children. They made it look like a cave inside and added little statues of animals. Michelangelo also contributed his “Prisoners” series (unfinished works – looks like they are escaping from the marble). The originals are now with David in the Accademia – these are copies. Look at the little blue door to the left of the grotto. This is the entrance to the famous Vasari Corridor, the secret passageway that the Medicis took across the Arno River on the Ponte Vecchio.

Last – head toward the exit, but take a look at the little statue on the right on the way out – it is Bacchus riding a turtle, a famous piece, if not a little odd. (There is a copy of it outside the pizza place at National Harbor!)

Lunch: Simple or Snazzy

Your choice: simple and laid back or fancier with a view.

Wander the streets toward the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. There are wonderful little shops and artisans on this side of the river.

If you opt for simple – head to Piazza San Spirito. It is a cute square with a number of restaurants and bars, where you can sit outside and watch the world go by. You will see everything here. Many mornings, they have a farmer’s market and on Sunday, a giant flea market. For eating, we liked Tamero Pasta Bar, where there is someone making homemade pasta in the window, graffiti on the walls, and house wine by the glass or bottle. http://www.tamero.it.

If you opt for snazzy – head toward the water. Turn right immediately before the Ponte Vecchio (bridge) onto Via de Bardi and go about half a block to the Golden View restaurant. Ask for a table with a view. They have gourmet dishes, white tablecloths, and the best view in town. http://www.goldenviewopenbar.com.

Afternoon Stroll

After lunch, take a leisurely stroll across the Ponte Vecchio. It is crammed with goldsmiths and jewelry shops. Notice the Vasari Corridor that has snaked its way from the Pitti Palace and is above.

Keep strolling up toward Piazza della Signoria (where the Uffizi and Palazzo Vecchio are – it has a big tower so hard to miss). Here, there are a variety of famous sculptures, including a copy fo the famous “David” by Michelangelo. If you don’t have time to see the original, you can at least see what the fuss is about.

Onward to the Duomo

Keep walking away from the water toward the Duomo.  Sneak over one block to the corner of via Calimala and via Porta Rossa until you see an open air market. If you walk around it, you will find a statue of a boar – nicknamed “The Little Piglet.” The legend is if you rub his nose, you will return to Florence.

Circle back and keep walking up via Calzaoili. You will know the Duomo when you see it – the outside is the best part. You can walk around it and the Baptistery (look at the golden doors of Paradise on the side of the Baptistery). It is free to go into the Duomo, so if there is no line, you can pop in and take a look. The dome is spectacular.

Take a Break at Scudieri

Our favorite dessert place is on this square – Scudieri – on top side by Baptistery on at the corner of via de Cerretani. It is old-time glamorous with chandeliers and a case full of dolci (sweets). We go here a few times a week for coffee, tea, and treats. (There is also a WC for 50 cents.) http://www.scudieri.eu.

If you still have more time, head back toward the water on via Roma to the Piazza del Republicca. The Rinascente department store is on the right as you head toward the river, on the same side as Savoy Hotel. Go to the 5th floor, where they have a terrace bar. Have a glass of proseco as you gaze at the Duomo.

Of course there are tons of other sites, views and good places to eat. But if I only had a few hours, these would be my pick.

We are so proud of ourselves tonight. Today, we climbed to the very top of the Duomo – to the white part at the top of the picture above.  It is the equivalent of 25 stories up – and then back down.  So we climbed 50 floors today!

The Duomo is the dome on the top of the cathedral and was built as a dome within a dome. The dome underneath helps support the outer dome, and the stairs we climbed go between the two. They are very narrow and those going up share the same space with those going down. So not for the faint at heart.

The inside of the dome has painting by Vasari showing the final judgment – Jesus sends everyone either to Heaven or the alternative, with graphic depictions of what happens in both. It is pretty impressive from the ground but even more breathtaking as you get closer.

First Balcony

We climbed and climbed. First we got to the lower balcony, right below the painting on the dome. We were mesmerized seeing it so close – and seeing how far the floor of the cathedral was below.

Second Balcony

Then we climbed some more and were right at the level of the painting itself. You can make out the people on the lower balcony in the picture below.  It was really amazing to be able to study the painting so close up.  We were in awe – I got tears in my eyes.

To the Top!

And then the finale – we climbed the last bit almost like a ladder to get to the very tip top cupola outside. What a view! We could see all the sights we have been visiting and snow-capped mountains in the distance. We could even see our little apartment way down below.

And Down Again

THEN – we had to climb back down. That was almost harder than going up. We had to really concentrate because there weren’t always rails and in some places, it was kind of steep. But we took one step at a time.

What a fun experience – we definitely earned our Chianti today!

Well, when I last wrote, we were in Naples and waiting to see if our Italian marriage license was going to be officially accepted so that Frank and I could elope. The last step in this process was to swing by the Naples courthouse on our way out of town and pick up the filed copy, which our new friend Marco was supposed to bring out.

Our Rendezvous with Marcus

We jumped in a cab at our hotel and tried to explain that we needed to go to the courthouse, but to leave the meter running because we’d be going straight to the train station. The driver said, “Va Bene” (OK) and sped off. We got there and Frank hopped out to look for Marco. I stayed with the luggage.

The driver looked a little nervous then – I guess it did look a little suspicious that we were picking up a “package” at the courthouse and had our get-away car ready and waiting. So I tried to explain we were getting married and that’s why we were there. He didn’t understand English, and my Italian does not extend to these kinds of situations, so I just hummed “Dum, dum, dum, dum – here comes the bride.” And he smiled and said, “Ahh” and looked very relieved.

But soon Frank came charging back with our freshly stamped paperwork and we were off the Napoli Centrale station. Victory! We took the train back to Florence and were happy to see our little apartment.

Back to Sightseeing

Today we were back to sightseeing. But first – lunch. I read in a couple of guidebooks about Trattoria Tito. It is way off the beaten path, so we trudged several blocks out of the tourist area before we found it. When we did, we weren’t so sure because it looked very small, a little run-down, and closed. But there were people out front, who told us that it would open soon. Apparently it is so good that the Italians line up before it even opens! Since we were there at the opening, we got a table without having a reservation.

There is a sign on the door that says, “No well done meat here.” And the menu adds, “And no cappuccino!” (since that is only for breakfast in Italy). It is a very lively place where you eat what you are given, and it is delicious. There is graffiti on the walls, and the only language you hear is Italian – no Americans here. At the end of the meal, they plopped down two plastic soda bottles- one full of grappa, the other homemade limoncello. You serve yourself however much you want. (We have already made reservations to go back later this week!)

Another Church with a Hidden Surprise: San Lorenzo

Back in full Florentine mode, we visited another church, but this one was one of the most special due to its facade. As you can see (above), it is very plain and not very attractive. This is San Lorenzo church, which is in our neighborhood and where the Medici Family worshipped and Cosimo the Elder, who started the Medici dynasty, is buried. Michelangelo had designed an exterior, but the Pope nixed it due to money problems and it was never completed. So many people pass it by.

But if you venture in, it is beautiful inside. Brunelleschi, who designed the Duomo across from us, also designed this church, and Donatello designed the pulpits. There is a dome in the sacristy that Brunelleschi painted to reflect the exact star pattern from July 4, 1442 (see below) – there are many theories, but no one today knows why that date was so important.

My favorite thing to do when I visit these churches is to light a candle. Usually there are several places where candles are set up, and you can light one for a small offering. I wait until I see the perfect chapel within the church that inspires me, then light my candle, and sit down and pray – for our journey, for our marriage-to-be, and for our families. I just love the thought that I have candles burning with prayers all over town.

Postscript:

We were so inspired by this church that we went back today for Sunday services. It was even more meaningful when full of fellow worshipers, music, and all the rituals of Mass. While the service was in Italian, we were able to follow along for most parts. I learned that “peace” is “pace” (pronounced pa-chee) – what you say when you shake hands. And “Thanks be to God” is “Rendiamo grazie a Dio.” (I did completely miss the Lord’s Prayer, which Frank says we recited, so I will have to work on that for next time.) We sat next to an Italian lady, who told us as we left, “Buona Domenica” – “Happy Sunday.” So I say to you – “Buona Domenica!”

This has been our most adventurous day yet. This post is a little long because so much happened. To catch you up, we are trying to secure the Italian version of a marriage license – a Nulla Osta – so we can elope in Italy (see our last blog for more details). Our instructions from our wedding consultant were to travel to Naples, meet someone named “Mr. Bruno” (Bruno is his first name), pay him some money, and go with him to the US Consulate and Italian Court. We got up early and were ready.

Mr. Bruno

We were to meet Mr. Bruno at 7:45 in front of the US Consulate. Our taxi dropped us at the steps and there was no mistaking it – big US flag, barriers, bars, and lots of guards with facemasks and guns. We timidly explained we were to meet a man named Mr. Bruno and trying to get our marriage license. The guard (who was Italian) said, “Ah, Mr. Bruno – wait here.” We were expecting an Italian lawyer in a suit, so figured we’d recognize him. But a few minutes later, up strolled a man in all leather holding a motorcycle helmet – Mr. Bruno (who, by the way is fantastic, and if I ever get in trouble in Italy I am calling!).

U.S. Consulate

Mr. Bruno said we were to go inside by ourselves – he could not join us – and meet him after. We got waved through security after surrendering our phones, iPad, and Kindles, and were directed to Window 6 on the second floor. There were no people in sight, so we went up the stairs, but no Window 6. We finally remembered that the second floor in Italy is really the third (they do not count the ground floor) and found Window 6.

There were a few other people seeking visas, but we were the only Americans. They man behind the window called us up over a loudspeaker (even though there were only 4 people in the room) and said gruffly, “Well, what do YOU want?”, to which we stammered about trying to elope in Italy. It was like the Cowardly Lion trying to talk to the Wizard of Oz to ask for courage. He had us fill out some forms where we had to list our place of birth, parent’s names, and other identifying information. We had to wait and wait and then another man called us up. He was behind a window and spoke through a microphone and questioned us about our intentions. Then we had to swear under oath that we were legally able to be married and were entering into this union voluntarily. With that, he stamped our Nulla Osta document, and we were legal – at least in the US.

The Italian Courthouse

Back outside, we met Mr. Bruno, who said our next step was to register the Nulla Osta at the Italian court. Since he was on a motorcycle, he found a taxi for us and gave the driver the address of the Tribunale (courthouse). He said he had to stop off at the police station to have our forms stamped. He said later it was for the police to confirm that our signatures were valid with the ones “on file” – we aren’t even sure what that means but figured we wouldn’t ask (this may be the part that was not all above-board).

We arrived at the Tribunale, which is the central courthouse for any legal business in Naples. It is huge and surrounded by the jail – needless to say, the neighborhood is a little seedy (see pictures above). There was a long line to get in, consisting of all walks of life. We were still by ourselves but managed to get in line and talk our way inside and through security. Once inside, I was amazed that the courthouse had a full bar inside, which was packed, it looked like by all the lawyers! (Mr. Bruno said this is where deals really are negotiated.)

Family Court & Marco

Mr. Bruno met us and whisked us to the 16th floor for family court matters. Waiting for us was a man he introduced as “my friend Marco – he works in this building.” We weren’t sure why Marco was there – I thought maybe holding our place in line.

We waited awhile and eventually Bruno explained that two witnesses are required to testify that they know both me and Frank and that we are legally able to marry. Apparently Marco was our second witness – with Bruno being the first. Since we actually never had seen either one of them until today, they asked us to write down all of our important information in capital letters so they could keep it straight. (Bruno added, “Don’t worry, it’s not illegal.”)

Eventually, we got called in to an office where someone who seemed to be a magistrate of some sort reviewed the documents, interviewed our witnesses, entered our information, and placed a lot of stamps on our papers. Bruno and Marco looked a little nervous, like maybe we’d all be caught out. We just kept quiet. And then, with one final stamp, we were free to go.

Next Step

Now the papers have to be officially recorded. So we go back to the courthouse tomorrow to pick them up – our new friend Marco is supposed to meet us outside with them, and we can jump out of the taxi and grab them. We have no way to reach Marco and don’t even know his last name, so we shall see . . . .

Relief & Neapolitan Pizza

After all that we were so wiped out that we opted to skip sightseeing and just wander around the back streets of Naples. The day before, we were completely intimidated by the chaos of the city, but after our courthouse experience, it all seemed much tamer.

Naples is known for its pizza, so we asked our taxi driver to recommend a place. In Italian, he told us about Pizzeria al Due Due (22) – “the best pizza in Naples.” He said it was on a piazza “about mezza kilo” (half a kilometer) away. We knew we’d never figure that out, so just took a long walk down via Toledo, the main drag. Then we got braver and branched out to side streets, where the real action was – fish markets, little stalls with customers and shopkeepers yelling at each other, and scooters that would shoot past, even on the sidewalk.

Finally, I spied what looked like the perfect pizza place – and guess what? It turned out to be Pizzeria al 22! They have been serving Neapolitan pizza since 1935. Our taxi driver was right – it was the best pizza I’d ever had.

So fingers crossed tomorrow goes as planned and we pick up our papers on time – and then train back home to Florence. We feel like we’re on an Amazing Race-style Treasure Hunt, with the prize at the end being a wedding. What a romantic adventure!

Well, folks, we have an announcement! Frank and I have decided to elope while we are here in Italy – place and time is our secret!

We thought it would be so romantic to duck into a little church somewhere and tie the knot. But we learned it is not that easy. To get married in Italy, you must have a document called the Nulla Osta. It basically confirms that you are legally able to wed. It turns out that most people who want to marry in Italy start this process months in advance because it involves getting recently certified copies of your birth certificates and going to the Italian Consulate in your country with several witnesses who can attest that you are single.

How to Obtain a Nulla Osta WHILE in Italy?

But – we are already here, so what to do? We contacted a local wedding consultant who said, “No problem – you just need to go to Naples.” Puzzled, we asked what would happen in Naples. Apparently, in Naples, you can go to the US Consulate and show just your passports in order to register for marriage. Then you have to go to the Italian court to have it all documented and obtain the Nulla Osta. Of course, this also involves a little money being passed around (we think maybe under the table, which is why we figure we can only do this in Naples).

Trenitalia to Napoli

So – we are on the train on our way to Naples. We have an appointment with a man they simply call “Mr. Bruno” (Bruno being his first name). We are to meet him in a park with our money and go with him to the US Consulate and Italian Court. We feel like this is legit because we have received official appointments from the US State Department to meet with the US Consulate. (However, it will probably be a bit of an adventure!)

Assuming this is not a sting operation and we end up either deported or in jail, by Friday we should have our Nulla Osta and will be free to marry. We are in Italy for a few more months, so we have lots of good options for times and places. So stay tuned . . .

Postscript:

We are in Naples!  We had a fun afternoon sightseeing before our meetings at the US Consulate and Italian court tomorrow.

We had heard all kinds of warnings of the dangers of Naples, so were a bit nervous when we got off the train, holding our bags close by our sides. But we easily grabbed a taxi and are now at our beautiful hotel on the water with a view of Mount Vesuvius and Capri. Brings back good memories of our sail last year in the Bay of Naples.

We even got brave and struck out on our own to explore a little. Then got a little nervous again so grabbed the Hop On Hop Off Bus, which was a perfect way to see the city and get our bearings. We went all over. After, we even got savvy enough to duck into a famous local cafe, Gambrinus, which was very elegant. They have been open since 1860 and have served all kinds of celebrities, including Oscar Wilde, Ernest Hemingway, and Luciano Pavarotti.

We are excited about our adventures tomorrow – we will update you after!